A. Skin Types

  1. This is the most common skin type in South Africa.
  2. The oily parts are generally the chin, nose and forehead, known as the T-zone.
  3. The upper cheeks (butterfly area) may also show signs of oiliness.
  4. Normally the cheeks and neck area is dry.
  5. Shows signs of ageing in the drier areas.

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A. Skin Types

Dry
  1. Lack oil / sebum.
  2. Oily dry (Alopedic).
  3. Lack of lubrication.
  4. Fine texture, look & feel tight.
  5. Often sensitive and flaky.
  6. Prone to lines & wrinkles.
  7. Thin & transparent look.
  8. Tendency to allergies.
  9. Internal changes (sebaceous glands under active).

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A. Skin Types

  1. Don’t age quickly.
  2. Feels thicker.
  3. Enlarged pores (follicles).
  4. Fewer lines & wrinkles.
  5. More subcutaneous tissue.
  6. Prone to comedones, millia, papules and pustules.
  7. Overactive sebaceous glands.

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A. Skin Types

B. Skin Conditions

Keratinisation within follicles and over secretion of sebum leads to comedones. When there is no longer oxygen within the follicle, the bacteria cause inflammation within the follicle, this leads to the formation of papules and / or pustules.

Causes:

  1. Stress.
  2. Hormonal changes.
  3. Comedogenic ingredients in cosmetics.
  4. Excessive friction.

B. Skin Conditions

Little or no elasticity.
Thin in appearance.
Lines & wrinkles.
Impaired barrier.

Causes:

  1. Overexposure to UV-rays.
  2. Environmental factors.
  3. Lifestyle.

B. Skin Conditions

Small blood vessels beneath skin surface.
Red/sensitive appearance.
Thin skin.

Aggravated by:

  1. Extreme temperatures.
  2. Spicy foods (curry, strong flavoured foods).

B. Skin Conditions

Normal sebaceous secretion & still suffer from flaking & tightness due to lack of moisture.
Visible superficial fine lines & flakiness.
Skin may feel tight.

Causes:

  1. Harsh cosmetic products.
  2. Inadequate moisture intake.
  3. Excessive caffeinated beverages.
  4. Seasonal changes.

B. Skin Conditions

Gets erythema with stimulation.
Sensitive to touch.
Thin skin & prone to allergic reactions.
Often experience stinging and burning.

Causes:

  1. Lifestyle.
  2. Harsh cosmetic products.
  3. “Cherry picking”, use a combination of different products from different cosmetic houses.

B. Skin Conditions

Uneven skin colour normally occurs on sun exposed areas.

Causes:

  1. Sun exposure.
  2. Hormonal imbalance.
  3. Some medications.
  4. Artificial fragrance.

B. Skin Conditions

C. External and Internal Influences

Ultra-violet Light

UV light activates the pigment melanin in the skin, and thereby creates a tan.
UVA penetrates deep into the dermis were it can cause premature ageing and the formation of free-radicals.  These molecules disrupt production of collagen and elastin, the fibres that give the skin its strength and elasticity.  Reduced elasticity leads to wrinkling.  Dilated capillaries are often present on a sun-damaged skin. UVB causes thickening of the stratum corneum layer and is the main ray involved in hyper pigmentation as it only penetrates into the epidermis.

Cold Climate

When the skin is exposed to the cold, less sebum is produced.  This could cause the skin’s barrier to become impaired, allowing moisture to evaporate.

Hot Climate

In very hot weather more moisture is lost as perspiration: perspiration increases, to cool the skin and regulate the body's temperature. 
More sebum is produced in warm weather.

Humidity

Moisture loss from the skin is also affected by the humidity (water content) of the surrounding air.  In hot, dry weather humidity will be slow, so water loss will be high; e.g. the skin would be more dehydrated in the presence of air conditioning and central heating.

Extreme Temperatures

Alternating heat and cold often leads to the formation of broken capillaries and could cause the skin to become sensitised.

Incorrect or Poor Skin Care

Harsh alkaline chemicals such as detergents, soaps and alcohol base products remove sebum from the skin's surface and destroy the acid mantle.  The skin will have less protection against the environment.  Constant rubbing and pulling of the skin can also weaken the collagen fibres, resulting in wrinkling of the skin.
Mannerism such as tugging, pulling, or pushing the facial muscles should also be avoided, as it can contribute to premature wrinkling.

Pollution

Environmental pollutants such as lead, mercury and aluminium can accumulate in the body.  One result is the formation of dangerous chemicals that attack proteins in the cells.  Such pollutants find their way into food through polluted waters, rain and dust.  To protect the body, always wash vegetables thoroughly and eat a diet rich in vitamins C and E.
Air pollution, involving carbon from smoke, chemical discharges from factories, and fumes from car exhausts, should be removed from the skin by effective cleansing.  If not cleansed thoroughly, it can lead to congestion and breakouts.  Absorption of these pollutants is reduced by the application of moisturiser that will form a barrier over the skin surface.  Absorbed pollutants can lead to skin sensitivity and allergic reactions.

C. External and Internal Influences

Stress

Stress is shown in the face as tension lines where the facial muscles are tight.  Because blood and lymph cannot circulate properly, this causes a 'sluggish' skin condition and poor facial nutrition.  That could cause pre-mature ageing.  A person suffering from stress usually experiences disturbed sleep, sometimes sleeplessness (insomnia).  Lack of sleep causes the skin to become dull and puffy, especially the tissue beneath the eyes, where dark circles also appear.  Too much sleep also can cause the facial tissue to become puffy - because the circulation is less active; body fluids collect in the tissue.
Individuals suffering from stress may drink more tea, coffee or alcohol, or smoke more cigarettes; this too damages the skin.
Stress and anxiety are often the underlying cause of certain skin disorders.  Some skin conditions, such as boils and styes, appear at times of stress; others, such as psoriasis and eczema, may become much worse.  Stress also influences and aggravates acne breakouts.

Smoking

Smoking interferes with cell respiration and slows down the circulation.  This makes it harder for nutrients to reach the skin cells and for waste products to be eliminated.  Cigarette smoking also releases a chemical that destroys vitamin C.  This interferes with the production of collagen, and thereby contributes to premature wrinkling.  Excessive nicotine in the system can cause a yellow cast to the skin.

Alcohol

Heavy intake of alcohol dilates the blood vessels.  If these conditions continue over a long period of time, this can weaken the capillary walls.  Alcohol also draws water out of the tissues and leaves the skin dull and dehydrated.

Weight loss

To keep the body healthy an individual should maintain his or her normal weight.  When weight is lost too rapidly, as in the case of crash diets, the skin does not have time to adjust to the changes in the underlying facial muscle.  This cause premature wrinkling and sagging of the skin.

Medications

Medications can affect the skin and need to be considered.

High blood pressure tablets can cause rashes and bruising.

Birth Control Pills may affect the skin by causing hyperpigmentation and clients may see a change in the amount of acne breakouts they experience.

Antihistamines, which are so often taken by those clients suffering from allergic reactions and sinus congestion, may cause excessive dehydration on the skin surface, and some are reactive with ultra-violet light.

Antibiotics, and in particular the tetracycline so often given for acne, cause increased sensitivity to ultra-violet light.  Antibiotics can also cause skin rashes.

Steroids, especially cortisone, can in some cases cause a certain type of "acne", which is in fact an inflammation of the follicles.

Medicines containing bromides and diodides, as found in many cold remedies, can cause acne breakouts.

Excessive use of diuretics and laxatives will cause the skin to become dehydrated.

Caffeine, antihistamine and cold remedies are all very dehydrating to the body.

Medical condition

  1. Arthritis
    High aspirin intake used in the treatment of arthritis thins the capillary walls, resulting in increased skin sensitivity, and couperose. Take care when performing certain massage movements on the affected areas.
     
  2. Diabetes
    The client may have a skin with poor healing ability, bruise easily and have a hypersensitive skin.  Diabetics may suffer from extreme redness of the face and increased skin infections.
     
  3. Sinus conditions
    The client may have hypersensitive skin couperose across cheeks which may also be red and inflamed.  Treat the skin as hypersensitive skin - less heat.  Less pressure.  Less product.  Less time.
     
  4. Bridge work or dentures
    The client may have sensitive skin or couperose.
     
  5. Epilepsy
    The client may experience convulsions or may be taking medication which can affect the skin. In this case, use of any electrical machines should be avoided due to the possibiility they may trigger a fit.
     
  6. Thyroid Issues
    Thyroid conditions affect the skin, and thyroid hormones are responsible for the production of connective tissue in the lower layers of the skin, and the secretion of skin sebum.
    An overactive thyroid causes the skin to become thin, moist and covered with fine, sweaty hair.  An underactive thyroid gland shows up as rough, dry skin with decreased sweat and hair growth.
     
  7. Liver Disease
    Liver diseases such as yellow jaundice increase the skins bruisability, and the amount of spider naevi.
     
  8. Pregnancy and menstruation predisposes the skin to reactions due to an abnormal state of hormonal balance.
    The therapist must remember that menstruation will predispose the client to allergies, and reactions to pressure, pain, and heat.
    Clients may also be more susceptible to oiliness and breakouts during this time.
     
  9. X-rays inhibit sebaceous gland activity. 
    The client may notice a marked decrease in the amount of oil production, and breakouts of the skin after dental X-rays.

Diet
The skin is an organ of elimination.  If the body is on a detoxification diet or a fast, the skin may breakout.  If the client has a restricted fat intake, the skin may become very dry.
Good nutrition helps the skin to function in a normal way.  Allergies, rashes and other skin disorders are often the result of a poorly balanced diet.

C. External and Internal Influences